Light Tackle Techniques for Deep Water Lake Trout, Brook Trout, Aurora Trout & Walleye

The deepwater trout technique below can be used for any deepwater fish. I originally designed the rig as a convenient way to be able to fish deep for Lake Trout when I was on canoe trips where we had to canoe and portage into the wilderness. The rig works so much better then any other deepwater technique that I started using it for deepwater Walleye, Salmon, Brook Trout and Aurora Trout as well as Lake Trout.

We catch Lake Trout over 20 pounds with this rig using 6-pound test line. We have brought in 30+ pound salmon on the Great Lakes but switched to 8-pound test line. For Walleyes, we use a 6-foot lead line to a Countdown Rapala. The big trophy female Walleyes go deep after they spawn and can be found in 20 to 30 feet of water.

The 3-way swivel technique below is ten times better then using steel line or bait-walkers and it's a lot more fun then using down-riggers.

You need a light action rod with 4 or 6-pound test line. You also need three-way swivels and a 1 or 2-oz weight depending how deep you want to fish, which depends on what time of year it is.

Diagram showing the setup:

By using light line, the line has less friction with the water and slices through so that your line goes down to the bottom without having lots of line out. Tie two 3-foot pieces of line to your three-way swivel. Use a 1 or 2-oz. weight on one line and a light lure on the other. Lake Trout like small lures. Use #1 or #0 Mepps, Panther Martins or Blue Foxes. Small Cleos or a small Mepps Cyclopes are also good.

A 1-oz weight with 6-pound test dark green line is good for fishing down to 40 feet. A 2-oz weight is good for fishing down to 65 feet.

Trolling Slow:

You only want to move just fast enough for your lure to work and no faster. If your boat is moving too fast, it will be very hard to find the bottom of the lake. If you are using a boat with a bigger motor and it's hard to keep slow, try back trolling.

Finding the bottom:

The most important aspect of deep water trout fishing is letting out line to get to the bottom. DO NOT JUST LET YOUR LINE OUT UNTIL IT HITS BOTTOM. Hold the rod in one hand with the bail open. Let the line run through the palm of your other hand and grip the line. Once the boat starts moving and you have a good straight troll going, open your hand with the line then close it again. This way you can let out a foot or two of line at a time. Get a rhythm going. Open, close, open, close. Your rod tip will bounce up and down as you release little bits of line. The rhythm of your rod tip bouncing will be disrupted when your weight hits the bottom of the lake. When this happens, reel up a foot or two. The purpose of this procedure is to keep your 3-way swivel setup from getting tangled.

Trout are funny when it comes to hitting your lure. Small ones will hit and then take off so you know you have a fish on. The really big trout will hit the lure and slowly swim away. Some are so big they don't know they're hooked. So if you get a snag, make sure it's not a fish before you start toughing on your line. If it's a big trout, loosen the drag on your reel because they will go nuts and strip a 100 yards of line off your reel before you can turn them. Keep your drag set for 6-pound test line and do not horse the fish in.

Weather:

In the summer time, Lake Trout hit best in the morning between first light and 10:30 AM. They will hit better if the surface of the water is dead calm and it's a clear sky with high pressure. Any other conditions will cause them to slow down. If it's early spring, the trout seem to feed in other parts of the day. In some lakes the trout feed aggressively before dark.

Structure and wind:

Take a close look at the structure of the shoreline and try to extend the elevation patterns into the lake. If you see a cliff, odds are the water is deep at its face. If you see a string of islands, odds are there is a shallow shoal that runs between them. Trout like drop-offs so you would want to troll parallel to the string of shoals and not over them.

When you drop your line to the bottom, count how many times you let out line. You can get a good estimate of the depth. For Lake Trout, try to stay in 30 to 60 feet and close to shore. If you come across a spot and catch a trout, odds are there are more of them there.

The wind is very important when trout fishing. Traditionally for warm water fish like Walleye or Pike, you would fish on the side of the lake were the wind is blowing. The logic being that the fish follow the surface food that is being blown in. With trout it's the exact opposite. The wind also blows the warm surface water, which does not hold enough oxygen for the trout. Thus fish the side of the lake where the wind is coming from.

Depth:

In the Spring, the Lake Trout will be right up to the surface. As the water starts to warm up with the changing weather, the trout start to go deeper. Here is the approximate depth for different times of year. This is not true for all lakes. Some smaller spring fed lakes will have trout shallow all year.

Lake Trout Depths:

  • Just after ice-out --> Between 10 feet and the surface
  • Mid Spring --> About 20 to 30 feet deep
  • Late Spring --> About 30 to 45 feet deep
  • Summer --> Summer is the tricky part. Many believe that the Lake Trout go to the deepest part of the lake and stay dormant. In actual fact, the Lake Trout stay suspended in 53° thermal layers or concentrate in shallower holes where a natural spring pumps cold water into the lake. Why are they there? That's where all the baitfish are. There will be trout deeper then 60 feet or on the bottom in the deepest part of the lake but they are not feeding. When they do feed, they come shallower.

    Brook & Aurora Trout Depths:

  • Just after ice-out --> Between 10 feet and the surface
  • Mid Spring --> About 10 to 20 feet deep
  • Late Spring --> About 20 to 30 feet deep
  • Summer --> Between 25 and 40 feet, yet close to shore. On calm evenings, Brook Trout and Aurora Trout will come to the surface to take flies but can only stay shallow for a short time as oxygen levels are too low for them.

    Walleye Depths:

  • Just after ice-out --> Between 5 feet and the surface
  • Mid Spring --> About 5 to 10 feet deep
  • Late Spring --> About 5 to 15 feet deep
  • Summer --> Small and medium size Walleyes will stay in the 5 to 15 foot range all year. Big trophy females will go down 20 to 30 feet deep in the summer but will come shallow at night to feed along the shore.

    Depth Finder:

    It's good to have a depth finder so you can map the schools of bait-fish that are suspended. When you do come across a school, troll around the outside of the school. The Lake Trout sit right underneath the school waiting for weak or injured fish to venture outside the school. Out in the middle of the lake, you will find these schools of bait-fish in the 30 to 60 foot range. It's different on most lakes but this is a good place to start.

    Middle of Summer Lake Trout:

    The middle of summer is the time when people spend the least amount of time hunting down Lake Trout. With the 3-way swivel method, the middle of the summer can be the best time because the Lakers are concentrated in the deep holes and not spread out all over the lake like they are in the spring. Once you find a spot in the summer where you are catching Lake Trout, keep going back because they will stay in the same spot the whole summer.

    A Lake Trout's feeding turns on and off like a light-switch. You can find a spot where you are mapping fish on your depth finder and fish that spot for days without catching anything. Then all of a sudden, they start feeding like crazy for an hour or two and then stop dead again. You have to keep trying. Perseverance is a major factor in successful Lake Trout fishing.

    We have lakes you can drive to with Brook Trout and Aurora Trout. The same light tackle technique can be used effectively. Brook Trout and Aurora Trout are usually shallower in the 25 to 40-foot range and tend to stay close along drop-offs close to shore.